It is finished

Well my friends, it's all over. I pedaled onto the beach on Thursday with a big grin and headed straight for the water. It's been a grand total of fifty days on the road and every second has been incredible. I've yelled obscenities at the wind in Texas, I've flipped off a handful of horrible drivers (mostly in Arizona), I've laughed while riding out of the mountains in Southern New Mexico, and I've shared amazing evenings and nights with people that have inspired me. That's what I come back to in my mind when I look back on the last month and a half. I would have quit the first week had I not discovered early on that at the end of a long day of riding waits an undiscovered stranger capable of restoring something in my soul that a lonely road will begin to remove. If nothing else this trip has taught me that cynicism is something a man creates in his own seclusion. All you've got to do is get out of your home, your car, and allow yourself the vulnerability to experience the goodness in people that begins with eye contact and simple curiosity. We have sheltered ourselves here in America and the walls we put up destroy our understanding of the common ground we can find in any person, in any place.

Thank you, thank you, thank you to the people that have kept me and fed me. Collectively, you have made this possible and I'll never forget you.

Get on the bike!

-Nate

Tour Of The Gila

I spent Saturday in Silver City where I happened upon one of the biggest road racing events in the country, The Tour of the Gila.

And this one's just for fun. Rawson was volunteering as a support vehicle driver for the race. This was after a couple drinks and some roof climbing.

Fire Mountain - Radium Springs, NM

Tonight from where I'm camping you can catch a glimpse of the wild fires up in the mountains. Quite the ominous sight.

Carol - Carmine, Tx

It took Carol five years to build her home. She took classes for a while to learn how to construct the bracing and took off from there. When you ask her about any minute detail there's a story behind it; how she got the kitchen tile for a steal because it needed some cleaning or how her island was an old butchers table that took her weeks to sand the grease out of and level. The detail Carol has placed into the making of her home spills over into the way she cares for he guests. She allows cyclists passing through to stay for free in a bunkhouse above her barn for a day or week of resting. It's quite the large space with a wonderful front deck that overlooks a valley of rolling Texas farmland. The floorboards creek and the bathroom door handle falls off if you pull it too hard. There's a claw foot tub without a shower head for washing and a multitude of hotel soaps and shampoos that past travelers have left behind on the table beside it. Cast iron skillets hang on the walls above the stove, linens rest neatly at the end of each bed, cycling books are stacked upon the main sitting table. This is a place where a traveler can't help but feel at home.

As we shared a delicious stew in Carol's home we talked about the folks that have passed through. After she had finished slicing the strawberries in preparation for desert she pulled out a binder filled with photographs and little notes from those who have stayed in years past. They come from different places and none look the same, some travel alone while others have family in tow, some are outfitted in expensive cycling clothing, some where blue jeans, all of them though share one thing in common and it can be read in their notes - they are amazed by Carol. They are amazed by her brightness, by her home, by her generosity and her energy. I am no exception.

Independence Coffee

Penny and I were a bit unsure of where we were headed yesterday and decided we'd poke our heads in at the Independence Coffee Roastery to ask for directions. I managed to snap a couple photos while there and we even let with a couple samples! Good stuff. Austin tomorrow!

Ernie and Doris - Richards, TX

Ernie and Doris's ranch is two miles outside of downtown Richards, Tx. It's an abandoned downtown that looks like the set of an old western. You cross the bridge over the creek and skip across the rusted railroad tracks around a bend where the road widens and a block of disheveled buildings sit to your right. The general store, the barber, the gas station whose owner has stayed to tell the visitors that the country is going to hell and "things just keep gettin' worse." Mostly older men trickle into the gas station there. They ask you where you're from and where you're headed, wish you luck. They buy a sandwich or a beer, and move along.

Mexican Hill Ranch opens up into a beautiful pasture where Ernie has planted hay for his cattle, thirty-something in all. Ernie grabs you with his words and stories right away while Doris chimes in with any details he might leave out. It's as though the two are speaking as one. He and Doris traveled back and forth between Germany and Texas to work on the ranch and build what they call Check Point Harley, a gem just of a place built on their property that provides camping, lodging, kitchen, showers, a pool, bar, and any other luxury a weary cyclist might be dreaming of at the end of a long day for a great price. Penny (my new friend that I've been biking with the past couple of days) and I stopped in for the night and couldn't stop saying sighing and saying, "this is so great."

New Orleans

I deviated from my route last week to visit my displaced Nashville friend, Michelle down in New Orleans. I had never been and I knew I'd kick myself if I stayed up north and didn't check it out. The city was incredible. But you already know about that.

What I want to tell you about, or rather, show you is a love affair between a boy, a girl, two dogs and a car. You figure out who's in love with who. Michelle, I know you'll never forgive me for posting photos of you in your early morning attire. I hope we can still be friends.

Where to Begin?

A few days before I pedaled out of St. Augustine I took a short trip out on the Natchez Trace loaded down with all of my new gear and set out to do a rehearsal ride of sorts. I figured it would be a nice way to get myself accustomed to the wobbling of the trailer and familiarize myself with the setting up and tearing down of camp. What I found though was that when I got on the bike everything worked as it was meant to. The derailleur adjustments I had made left the bike shifting smoothly, the handlebar bag housed my camera and a couple nutra grain bars perfectly, and the American flag waved proudly at passers by.

It was then that I realized the planning was done. One would think this would allow for a sigh of relief and an enjoyable ride without worry but I quickly realized this was the first time in two months that I had time to think about and reevaluate the reasons for my undertaking this trip. "I want to tell stories. I want to take pictures. How am I going to keep people up to date and interested? Can I actually do this?" The wheels turned the entire ride. I set up camp and made the most impressive fire a boy has ever seen and I sat there continuing to think as the occasional car passed by. It was there at the fire where I had this zen sort of moment and gave myself permission to allow the trip to unfold as it would and avoid the pressure I had placed upon myself, which leads me to now, where I feel like I can explain what the trip has become because it's much simpler than I ever could have imagined.

People. Being on a bike all day alone leaves me with one desire: to be with people. I've learned in the past week and a half that if I was to be a fly on the wall taking pictures objectively and not interacting and influencing who I'm with, I would go insane and hop on a bus back to Nashville to be with my friends. The people I have met so far along the way have turned my world upside down and given me a joy that I did not know existed and now all I want to do is meet folks at every stop to hear about their lives and allow their curiosity about mine to restore a bit of my sanity.

The whole trip is a bit more free form than I had imagined. I went from planning each day to planning one day in advance, if that. This allows me to ride into a town not knowing where I'm going to stay and forces me into interaction with locals. The conversation usually goes something like "Excuse me sir, I've just had a long day of biking and I'm looking for a place to put up a tent and sleep for the night, do you know if there are any public places around that might be good?" I've been amazed to find that while someone may not always invite you into their home and cook a big dinner for you, they will always at the very least point you in the right direction.

At any rate, I say all that so anyone expecting regular updates can understand that if the blog isn't updated, I'm having an amazing time. But I AM going to get some pictures up here for ya:

Jake and Judy

I was pretty exhausted in Marianna, Fl after a relatively long day of riding. It was getting dark and I was still without a place to stay. I had read about several touring cyclists who commonly knocked on doors and asked to pitch a tent for the night in a back yard but I never considered it myself until this night. I circled the neighborhoods looking for a house that seemed inviting, or at the very least, not uninviting, and found a place with a well kept yard, a welcome sign and a cross on the front door. I stood outside for about ten minutes rehearsing just what it was I would say to convince whoever might be waiting inside that I wasn't crazy and was legitimately in need of a place to sleep. I knocked and pleaded my case to Judy briefly. She looked back at Jake who was relaxing in his recliner and said in a bit of a confused southern draw, "Jake, this boy wants to sleep in our yard."

Jake spoke soft and firmly without wasting words or a breath. He asked where I was from. He asked about my faith and explained that they were naturally suspicious but after a few more questions they had me bring my bike around back, let me lock it up in their shed, and Jake even brought me out some tangerines. I went to bed in awe of their kindness and woke up to Jake inviting me in for a warm shower and a place at the breakfast table.

Each morning the two have a big bowl of raisin bran and coffee at a small table that sits against the far wall of their kitchen. They read over a list of missionaries from their church that are overseas along with a little devotional and pray for them. Jake prayed in the way he spoke. It reminded me a lot of my grandfather and I had some trouble not tearing up a bit when he began to pray for me, thanking God for their "new friend Nate."

Judy went on to describe how they had met. She had known Jake as a girl and grown up around him and his family. They had taken care of her from a young age and helped her through college. When Jake's wife died she made it up in her mind that she'd relocate closer to Jake so she could care for him much like he had done for her in her youth. As time passed they realized their affection for one another and got married. Jake chimed in at this part of the story saying "Yeah, we raised some eyebrows around town but it never bothered us any." It was a great morning of stories from a beautiful and youthful couple. Before I left a took a couple photos of them in front of their home. Judy gave me an envelope with their address to send her photos once I have the chance to print them. I hope to see them again.

I've got a couple more stories to tell but it's almost 11 here in Oakdale, La and if I don't leave soon I never will. I'll leave a couple more photos of a more random nature, some from the Mobile Bay ferry ride and other roadside things that don't require words to accompany. Although I hope you'll appreciate the beauty of the oil rigs in the bay. Get on your bikes people!

The Pilgrimage Begins

Not at all sure what I'm doing here. But so you know... I've departed. Let the good times roll.

Two And A Half Weeks

Here's a quick little teaser video. I should say as a disclaimer to those who are concerned that I will be wearing a helmet on the trip and not a straw hat.

The Natchez Trace And Inspiration

An amazing man with an amazing story. Stay tuned for the full photo series and interview.

About two weeks ago the grandfather of a great friend of mine found the blog and contacted me through e-mail to pass along a book suggestion he thought might pair well with my travels. I went ahead and purchased the book online that day. It was today while sitting at a coffee shop that I finally had the chance to crack it open and I instantly fell in love with some of the author's words. In his forward Charles Kuralt speaks of his relationship with CBS and its conflicts with his dreams:

We gave each other gifts. CBS News gave me travel and excitement and a reason for living, and eventually a measure of fame and fortune. I gave her most of my waking hours, and most of my thoughts and energy, and nearly all of my dreams for the future. I took crazy chances for her, especially in the beginning, often sleeping too little, working too hard, driving too fast, risking too much in places too dangerous, all to prove my love. I was ever constant. She took notice. We were consumed in each other. We were content.

Then I woke up one morning and realized I didn't love her anymore.

Time had passed, and we had changed. We no longer suited each other. An inner voice spoke to me. It said you are going to have to give up your big salary and your corner office and leave that Sunday morning program of yours to somebody else.

The voice said you haven't a world of time left to do all those things you promised yourself you'd do someday. For now, your lungs are still strong enough to let you walk through a mountain meadow and your legs will still support you in the current of a trout stream. You have plenty of curiosity left, and energy and love of life. You have at least one good long trip in you yet. If that's what you really want, you'd better be about it.

Charles Kuralt - "America"

Don't forget to take a minute and look over the detailed map in my previous post and let any friends in nearby towns or cities know about the trip!

Southern Bike Tour Cities

View Red White Bicycle Tour in a larger map

This whole thing just got real. I spent the afternoon creating a rough draft of the cities I'll be passing through. This will give everyone a much more detailed picture of where I'm headed and I hope you'll have insight into people, places, and things along the way.

I'll be leaving St. Augustine, Fl on March 23rd and completing the trip in just under two months. Now, time to get to work on the whole couch surfing thing.

Training And Planning

This is what I do for hours on end when it's cold and rainy and my mind hurts from planning.

I've been pretty amazed at the response so far and the amount of people that have contacted me offering tidbits of information on where they live or who they know. So, a big thanks to those of you who have taken them time to reach out and expect to hear from me as I find time to reply and possibly set something up! In coming weeks I'll be giving out more specifics about the towns I'll be near and a more clearcut time frame, so please continue to spread the word about the blog.

I'm also pretty thrilled to announce that I'll be beginning the first of many photo essays on Wednesday of next week!

Six Degrees Of Separation

As I've been out and about at bike shops or pulling internet from cafes talking with people about my trip there's always an "Oh, I've got to introduce you to so and so!" It's becoming clear that everyone has a friend of a friend and that's what I'm banking on here.

The month of February is crunch time for me to work out the logistics of the trip and secure as much housing as I possibly can. This is where you guys get to lend a hand and point me in the direction of folks you know along the way, or at least nearby. I'm basing my travels off of The Southern Tier Route.

Take a minute and mull over the route, talk with your friends, tell me who you've couchsurfed with, what towns you've visited, and repost this wherever you can! I can only make so many calls and e-mails and I'm really relying on those reading who have heard great stories or know great people that I don't want to miss along the way!

I've also got some exciting stories in the works just from meeting people here in Nashville and talking about the trip. Stay tuned!

An Introduction

Let's start here: My name is Nate Johnson. I'm a photographer based out of Nashville, TN. I'm going to bike across America. Alone.

It's funny, of all the people I've told about this trip I don't believe a single person has asked me the question "why?" I find their silence here mostly reassuring; as though they are acknowledging that a good reason to venture out in a such a way need not be had. Or perhaps they assume I won't have a good response. At any rate I'd like to take a minute to speak to the "why" because I believe it's pivotal to understanding who I am and might give skeptics a good reason to follow along.

When I was interning at a newspaper in Maryland years ago I remember having a conversation with the chief photographer about finding feature photos. His only suggestion was "get out of the car and walk." And that's exactly what I did. That choice to overcome any apprehension about just getting out on the street, approaching people, asking questions, and taking pictures was something that quickly ushered me into more of an adult mindset and also allowed a bit of childlike curiosity to play out. Doing those things taught me that I love to be out meeting people and telling their stories through photographs.

I'm getting out of the car and hopping on a bike with my camera in an attempt to tell the stories of the folks I meet while sharing the broader narrative of my trip and my own experiences.

So, what this blog won't be:

-A place for gear heads to get reviews on the equipment I'm using.

-A sugar coated account of what my trip is like. I'm going to be honest (as though my parents aren't reading).

-A commentary on personal growth - anyone who has ever done something new has changed as a result. Let's jot those things down in our moleskins.

What this blog will be:

-A place where folks can come and view photos and stories of the southern half of the United States.

-A place where folks can find out where the hell I'm at.

-A place where people can share resources with me about individuals they know along the way, roads to avoid, good camping spots, etc. I'd be kidding myself to believe that I'm actually capable of doing this ALONE. I hope this can be a hub where people share in the experience and contribute as well.

Please don't hesitate to contact me with any ideas or info as I share more in coming weeks about my route, timeframe, etc. I'd love to hear from you and I look forward to the new relationships that result from this adventure.